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Showing posts with label Tourism. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tourism. Show all posts

Thursday, 30 June 2016

The Flying Bull


The Tourism Department brochures will tell you enough. You must visit the magnificent Nellaippar Temple built by the ancient Pandya Kings and improved, expanded and maintained by every ruler to have Tirunelveli under his wings. The brochures will also advise you to stand under the Kuttrallam Falls post a massage with herbal oils. And of course visit the adjacent Kuttralanathar Temple which like most temples of Tamilnadu are ancient, big and magnificent! What the brochures will possibly not tell you is a must visit place in the vicinity, Sivasailam.

As the name suggests, Sivasailam is yet another temple dedicated to Lord Shiva that dot the landscape in and around the Tirunelveli District of Tamilnadu. Approximately 60 kms away from Tirunelveli, in the Ambasamudram Taluk is the abode of Sivasailanathar and his consort Paramakalyani. Located on the banks of Ghatana Nadhi, a tributary of Thamaraparani River this temple is steeped in myths and legends.

While the primary reason to visit any Sivalayam is to offer prayers to the reigning deity of the temple or sink in the beauty of the marvellous temple, Sivasailam offers a unique but interesting diversion to the routine. The most attractive exhibit in Sivasailam is the not in the sanctum sanctorum but outside it, the vehicle of Lord Shiva, the divine Nandi!

Myths, legends, folklore and a mixture of all these says that once Nandi complained to Lord Shiva that while the Lord and the Goddess along with the million other gods and goddesses of the Hindu pantheon get the pride of place and attention in all the temples, Nandi despite being the Vaahanam of Shiva is mostly ignored by the devotees. So upset, Nandi asked Shiva to help get some spotlight on him. Shiva having accepted the complaint as one with some merit in it, asked Maya the Architect/Engineer/Sculptor of the Asuras to sculpt a statue of Nandi which would be unmatched in its beauty and the same to be consecrated at Sivasailam. Maya, the story goes, sculpted a statue of such divine beauty, so lifelike, so perfect that the statue came to life and it prepared to get up and fly off to the heavens! Such perfection being too much for mere mortals of the earth to witness and appreciate. Maya, ever alert to such a possibility, promptly threw his instruments on Nandi even as it was getting up and made a thin wound on its back and thereby reducing the Nandi statue from the levels of perfection of the gods. The so dented statue promptly froze into a stone again and adorns the pride of place in the temple.  
Ready to get up and fly away!
Offered without comments!

The 'Dent' of imperfection!


There are many temples in India where one can see statues of Nandi much bigger in size and grander in scale, the ones in Brahadeeshwaran Temple in Thanjavur or the Basavangudi in Bangalore readily comes to mind but I bet if you would ever see a Nandi, more beautiful, almost bordering on perfection anywhere else but Sivasailam!  
Even the 'tail' tells a tale of perfection!

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PS: And while you are in the district don't miss too the Glorious temple in Tenkasi. And Papanaasam. And Sankarankoil. And................! 

Glossary:

Vaahanam : Mount/Vehicle

Asuras: People of the dark and evil in Indian Mythology

Sunday, 21 December 2014

Dancing Peacocks and Danish Bar!

15.11.2014, 5.30 AM:

Ola Cabs messages saying the cab I booked has arrived before schedule and I can leave early should I wish. They also compliment me with an upgrade to a sedan. Good Morning indeed!

15.11.2014, 6 AM:

A spic and span Coimbatore Junction anbudan welcomes me! Even the tracks are bereft of you know what we find on railway tracks in most Indian station early in the morning! This I am told is not an exception or a photo-op for Swachch Bharat Abhiyan.  Sorry to disappoint you Modiji, this is the hygiene workers earning their honest bread. Bravo Coimbatore!


Swachch Coimbatore Abhiyaan!

15.11.2014, 7 AM:

Unlike the Coimbatore Junction, the Coimbatore-Mayiladhuthurai Jan Shatabdi express presents a poor picture. Run down coaches, wet washrooms and the stink. The coach I travel in doesn’t have a garbage bin to boot, the place allotted instead to stock the stale and tepid breakfast parcels. Note: Please carry breakfast from home or buy a parcel from Annapurna before boarding the train. And skip the watery liquid masquerading as coffee!


15.11.2014, 1 PM:
The train is late. A growling stomach forces you to detrain at Kumbakonam instead. A full fledged saappadu later, SETC ride to Mayiladuthurai is undertaken. A 50 odd KMs ride for just Rs.21.00. Well done! The bus could have however seen a doctor before plying I felt. The other highlight is a single lane state highway. Single lane yes but as with most roads in Tamil Nadu well maintained. A sort of Single lane- toll free- expressway!



Nagore 
(For those who came in late: The entire stretch of coastal Tamilnadu from Chennai through Pondycherry- Cuddalore- Chidambaram- Mayiladuthurai- Kumbakonam- Thanjavur to Trichirapalli is a veritable treasure trove of ancient temples and architectural wonders. A detour from the highway every few kilometers on either side takes you to further more equally ancient and equally wonderful temples. The standing quip is that it takes two lifetimes to visit all the places of religious importance in this region. And while at it how can one be far away from the very Idea of India. Among the various pilgrimage routes is the one from Mayiladuthurai to Thirukadaiyur, a holy town for Hindus, to Nagore, the city of the famous Dargah built over the tomb of the Sufi Saint Hazrath Nagore Shahul Hamid. Also the birthplace of Singer Hanifa who sang Islamic devotional songs in Tamil, and right down to Velankanni, the city of the holy Catholic Church dedicated to Our Lady Of Good Health.  Yes! This is India! Despite the efforts of fundamentalist of various hues, we are like this only!)
Thirukadaiyur


Velankanni


16.11.2014, 9 AM:

One of the most expensive taxi rides takes me to Tranquebar! Not a bar literally but a Danish name for the lyrical Tamil name Tharangampadi! The site of the Danish landing and trading centre in India in early 17th century post an agreement between the Danes and the Maratha King Raghunatha Nayak, of Thanjavur. The highlight of Tranquebar is the majestic Danish Fort built right on the beach adjacent to the Masilamaninathar Temple. A part of the fort is now converted into an Indo-Danish Museum. I will stop the narrative and let the pictures speak instead.  

Danish Fort, Tharagampadi Aka Tranquebar!

16.11.2014, 1 PM:

Among the heart breaking sights is the so called renovation/restoration being done by the Archeological survey of Tamil Nadu and the Archeological Survey of India to the Masilamaninathar shore temple. I don’t know whom to credit this disaster but once again let the picture speak for themselves!


Yeppadi Irundha Naan..............


Ippadi ayittaen!!!!

16.11.2014, 8PM:

Why do all European town be it French, Portugese or Danish exude the same look? This could well be a street in Panjim, Pondicherry or Tranquebar!

Panjim, Pondicherry or..............!



16.11.2014, 10 PM:
Onwards Ho to Coimbatore with Rathi and Meena for company!


Rathi and Meena!

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PS: Mayiladuthurai literally means Land of dancing peacocks! How is that for poetry in a name! Thanks @ndranandraj!

Glossary:

Anbudan: With love
Swachch Bharat Abhiyan : Clean India Campaign
Sappadu: Tamil Nadu Full Meals.
Yeppadi Irundha naan, ippadi ayittaen : How I was and what I have become!