The Flying Bull

The Tourism Department brochures will tell you enough. You must visit the magnificent Nellaippar Temple built by the ancient Pandya Kings and improved, expanded and maintained by every ruler to have Tirunelveli under his wings. The brochures will also advise you to stand under the Kuttrallam Falls post a massage with herbal oils. And of course visit the adjacent Kuttralanathar Temple which like most temples of Tamilnadu are ancient, big and magnificent! What the brochures will possibly not tell you is a must visit place in the vicinity, Sivasailam.

As the name suggests, Sivasailam is yet another temple dedicated to Lord Shiva that dot the landscape in and around the Tirunelveli District of Tamilnadu. Approximately 60 kms away from Tirunelveli, in the Ambasamudram Taluk is the abode of Sivasailanathar and his consort Paramakalyani. Located on the banks of Ghatana Nadhi, a tributary of Thamaraparani River this temple is steeped in myths and legends.

While the primary reason to visit any Sivalayam is to offer prayers to the reigning deity of the temple or sink in the beauty of the marvellous temple, Sivasailam offers a unique but interesting diversion to the routine. The most attractive exhibit in Sivasailam is the not in the sanctum sanctorum but outside it, the vehicle of Lord Shiva, the divine Nandi!

Myths, legends, folklore and a mixture of all these says that once Nandi complained to Lord Shiva that while the Lord and the Goddess along with the million other gods and goddesses of the Hindu pantheon get the pride of place and attention in all the temples, Nandi despite being the Vaahanam of Shiva is mostly ignored by the devotees. So upset, Nandi asked Shiva to help get some spotlight on him. Shiva having accepted the complaint as one with some merit in it, asked Maya the Architect/Engineer/Sculptor of the Asuras to sculpt a statue of Nandi which would be unmatched in its beauty and the same to be consecrated at Sivasailam. Maya, the story goes, sculpted a statue of such divine beauty, so lifelike, so perfect that the statue came to life and it prepared to get up and fly off to the heavens! Such perfection being too much for mere mortals of the earth to witness and appreciate. Maya, ever alert to such a possibility, promptly threw his instruments on Nandi even as it was getting up and made a thin wound on its back and thereby reducing the Nandi statue from the levels of perfection of the gods. The so dented statue promptly froze into a stone again and adorns the pride of place in the temple.  

Ready to get up and fly away!

Offered without comments!

The 'Dent' of imperfection!

There are many temples in India where one can see statues of Nandi much bigger in size and grander in scale, the ones in Brahadeeshwaran Temple in Thanjavur or the Basavangudi in Bangalore readily comes to mind but I bet if you would ever see a Nandi, more beautiful, almost bordering on perfection anywhere else but Sivasailam!  

Even the 'tail' tells a tale of perfection!

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PS: And while you are in the district don't miss too the Glorious temple in Tenkasi. And Papanaasam. And Sankarankoil. And................! 

Glossary:

Vaahanam : Mount/Vehicle

Asuras: People of the dark and evil in Indian Mythology

The Mother, The Scholar & The Captain

Any note on the forthcoming Assembly polls in Tamilnadu must, absolutely must start with a word of kudos to the efforts put in by the Election Commission to inform, promote and popularise the Right and the Duty of the electorate to exercise their franchise. No media outlet has been left unexplored, indeed been fully exploited to achieve the utopian target of “Nooru sadavidham” as the popular slogan goes! To the election commission goes the Man of the Match award even before the game has started. Now it is up to the electorates to score that century!

                                                                   

May 16th, 100 Sadavidham!

                                                                     

Tamilnadu elections, more than any other state in India is all about personality, to the extent it almost borders on being Presidential. Personality driven elections in Tamilnadu predates even “Indira is India, India is Indira” nationally.  From Aringnar Anna to M.G.Ramachandran to M.K.Karunanidhi  to J.Jayalalitha, elections are won and lost because you are either for or against the leader. The quip “Even a lamp post can win on a Congress ticket” during India’s initial days of experiments with the ballot box post Independence was given a fillip in Tamilnadu under the above mentioned stalwarts. To a large extent the scenario continues to dominate. Unless the candidate in question is universally unpopular, he/she is most likely to sail through or bite the dust not because of her/his standing or abilities but due to how the “Thalaivar/Thalaivi” is perceived at the time of punching the button on the EVM. And this shows no signs of abating in the near future either.

The other area where Tamilnadu has been the harbinger is the rise of regional parties which hardly have a footprint outside the borders of the state. Ever since the DMK drubbed the Congress in ’67, the state has been alternatively ruled by one or the other regional parties. From its initial role of being the kingmakers, Congress and subsequently all other ‘National’ parties have been reduced to being footnotes. The sprouting of a plethora of smaller regional parties making these ‘National’ parties mere ‘notional’ parties in the state.  

I, Me, Myself!

As time moved along, Tamilnadu elections have stopped being only about personalities. The recent elections can be aptly described as being all about alliances and appliances! The dictum the whole being bigger than  the sum of its parts was possibly perfected by the leading Dravidian parties in Tamilnadu. The multitude of political parties with various levels of influence geographically or among caste and religious divides are co-opted in the belief that all other parameters being equal, 2+1+1/2+1/4 = 234! (234 is the number of seats in the Tamilnadu Assembly you dummkopf. Welcome!)

Regional Parties! Just a glimpse!

                                                    

The problem with arithmetic is that it can be duplicated. Also the breakaway factions among the political parties neutralized the arithmetic to a large extent as rival factions allied with rival camps! This led to the evolution of the next big idea to woo the voter. While freebies have always been in the backdrop of any Indian election, the freebie was usually food (Rice/Wheat/Take your pick) or a leg up for food production (free power to farmers etc.). In a first of its sort Tamilnadu added Colour Television among ‘necessities’ and offered it free to electorates! Soon Mixies, Fans, Laptops, Jewellery were added to the list and it has become a virtual free for all ever since! One wonders which among Smartphones, Refrigerators, Washing Machines, Dishwashers and Microwaves will make it to the manifestos this time around!

Kalaignar and 'Sonrise'?

#TNElections2016 is unique because after nearly three decades the polls are going to witness a multi cornered contests. In the blue corner is Amma fighting a ‘I,Me, Myself  vs the Rest’ contest. In the Red corner is her rival since eons, Kalaignar, the Nonagenarian leader desperate for his ‘Sonrise’, with Congress and some loose change parties for company. Waiting in the wings, hoping to get a toehold is a ragtag coalition of parties with more leaders than followers led by a Captain who is likely to traverse the entire road from being a possible kingmaker to wannabe king and despite the public bravado, praying he doesn’t end up a spoiler with no spoils. And finally there is this faceless, friendless, ally-less, leaderless party among the also-rans which is likely to end up with Participation Certificate! I refer to the same party which incidentally heads the Federal Govt of The Union of India!

   

I am no psephologist. And if you were expecting me to predict the outcome of the elections in this note, I am happy to disappoint you. All I can say here is I hope the election commission wins. And more importantly, with apologies to Ravi Shastri, I pray whoever wins, at the end of the day Tamilnadu will be the real winner!

The Real Winner Please!

                                                                

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PS: These parties are also fighting an election in the neighbouring Pondicherry which must right now be feeling like Rahul Dravid!

Glossary:

Nooru Sadavidham : 100%

Aringnar Anna : Sobriquet bestowed on C.K.Annadurai. Literal meaning Knowledgeable Elder Brother.

Amma: Popular nickname of TN CM J.Jayalalitha meaning Mother.

Kalaignar: Popular Nickname of former CM of TN, M.K.Karunanidhi meaning Artist/Scholar

Thalaivar/Thalaivi : Leader

Divine Delight!

I am not a believer in celebrating the various ‘International Day of...’ kind of things. I believe the so called Women’s days, Mother’s days etc are an exercise in futility and go not an inch beyond symbolism or mere lip service. I mean these are people whom we should be celebrating every day and not on days as decided by smart marketing companies out to sell merchandise. I however have decided to make an exception. 30th of March has been added to my calendar as the ‘Must be celebrated day’ list, to be celebrated on a scale that rivals Diwali, New Year, Eid or any such festival which crowd the Indian festival calendar. And why not? After all it is no ordinary a day. It is World Idly Day no less!

Idly! Divine Delight! With Chutney for company.

For the uninitiated Idly is the greatest of creation after the universe. As the food bloggers would lyrically describe “The finest of boiled rice from the farms of Thanjavur, irrigated by the holy Cauvery, mixed with the balanced amount of black lentil, soaked and then ground into batter in the kal ural, fermented overnight and then steam cooked to outshine the brightest and splendorous Pournami Moon!” Simpler folks like me call it Cakes made out of Rice and Lentil batter, steam cooked! But then why should we stop anyone from going orgasmic about this divine delicacy!

My love affair with Idly surprisingly started when I was well into my 2^nd innings. Coming from a Tamil family where the kitchen did not permit chaats as a regular part of the menu, it was Dosai, the crisper, oilier, paper thin and much overrated cousin of Idly which had me bewitched. Suffices to say Dosai was my chaats and junk food rolled into one. It took me a bout of indigestion once I shifted to Bangalore for my dalliance with Idly to begin. “Give him only Idly!” Thus spake the sagely neighbourhood MBBS. Over the next few days, starved as I was to the levels of being suspected of a case of malnutrition, my tryst with Idly, twice a day was the closest a hungry stomach could come to heaven. And it was the start of a romantic journey which will last till my journey to the cremation ground. (Bengalis reading this may replace Idly with Paaruti and Horlicks which is the staple medication prescribed whenever one visited the Doctor with any ailment in Kolkata. Only the prescription and not the delight. Welcome!)

Dosai! Idly's overrated cousin!

Idly as many of you know is served with  sambar and a variety of chutneys. Don’t let anyone fool you. These side dishes are mere substitutes. If at all there was something which was destined to join Idly in a holy and wholesome wedlock, it is Podi. Podi also often referred to as Idly Podi, Molaga Podi and blasphemously as Dosai Molaga Podi, in combo with Idly is what perfection is.  English Medium Types call it Gunpowder. Made for each other. Blending as perfectly as Lord Shiva and Parvati do as in Ardhanarishwaran. The Podi mixed in gingilly oil, applied like a face pack all over the Idly, allowed 30 odd minutes of togetherness so as to enable the spice of the chilly and the strength of the oil to penetrate the very heart of the Idly and then a gentle bite, measured by habit to bisect the Idly right down the middle! Slurrrrrrpppp!

Idly and Podi. Made for each other!

You would have met many a Foodie who would have recommended “The best Idly in the world” restaurants. Foodie doesn’t describe me however I would fail in my devotion to Idly should I not share some of my best stories here. Once on a business trip, horribly late, we drove into Trichy in the wee hours. Famished. With all the restaurants closed, needless to add. As a last resort we drove towards the Trichy Railway station. And what do we see but the ubiquitous kaiyyendhi bhavan that dot the landscape of Tamilnadu. Serving hot steaming Idly. We would not have traded them even for Nectar!

Then there was that instance when while on a road trip, we decided that we will halt for the night at Madurai. A must visit to the Meenakshi Amman Temple in Madurai supposedly being the reason. We halted. We visited the Temple. Then we attained nirvana. Not at the temple as you would have assumed but at the Murugan Idly Kadai whose popularity rivals Meenakshi Amman’s if I am not exaggerating! The one problem with Murugan Idly was that one had to plan expensive and often time consuming pilgrimage if one wanted their blessed Idlys. Till one day they decided that the well might as well walk to the thirsty and opened their branches in Chennai too. Unfortunately they did it around the time I shifted from Chennai to Coimbatore!

Speaking of Coimbatore, don’t let anyone derail you by describing it as the ‘Manchester of South India’ or ‘Gateway to Ooty’ or the ‘Pumpset Capital of India’ or ‘The Land of the MysurPa’. Coimbatore is of course all that but importantly more than just that. When next in the city don’t you dare leave without laying your hand on and treating your taste buds to a cosmic ride with Onion Podi Idly at Anandhas. Especially at their outlet in Brookefield Mall.

The best Idly in the world however is the one which has been christened ‘Khushboo Idly’ by the people who go on to make the family tree of Yours Truly. To stop any wrong notions the name might suggest to your hungry minds, ‘Khushboo Idly’ so named not only due to the fragrance or aroma that the said emanates. But also for combining with its aroma, the right amount of plumpness. Not to forget a softness which makes the Idly melt in your mouth like magic! For those who came in late, this unique nomenclature is a tribute to one of the leading stars of the Tamil Filmdom bearing the same name, Khushboo! As is Khusbhoo, so is Khushboo Idly. Voluptuously plump and as the name suggest aromatic. The family circles however would like to clearly state that none of us have ever had the opportunity to meet Khushboo and hence cannot confirm about her being ‘soft’ like our Idly. However we are convinced enough to believe that someone who is so breathtakingly rotund, fair and lovely and with a name meaning fragrance must be soft too! Add to it we have seen her melt many a heart on the silver screen. As the slogan in the family goes, “It ain’t Idly if it ain’t Khushboo Idly!”    

Khushboo Idly!

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PS: Thanks @sporty_baba for introducing World Idly Day to me!

Glossary:

Chaats : Savouries

Sambar :

Podi/Molaga Podi : Chilly Powder

Ardhanarishwaran : Ardha –Half, Nari – Women, Eshwaran – Male Deity

Kaiyyendi Bhavan : Roadside eatery

Kadai : Shop/Store

MysurPa :

Kal Ural: Grinding Stone

Paaruti :

Purnami : Full Moon

    

I Looove Road Trips!

Vajpayee Highways!

My enthusiasm for road trips started only after what I consider is one of the best infrastructure projects in India, the Golden Quadrilateral popularly known as ‘The Vajpayee Highways’ came into being. Driving on these are a pleasure and a peace and a primary reason for the title of this note! I agree the toll rates are steep but then I am a firm believer in the dictum that there are no free meals. I would happily pay if I get world class service. It would have been apt had Tobay Maguire mouthed “With great roads come greater toll tax!”

No free meals!

The primary advantage of Road Trips is the sheer convenience it offers by way of the start time- halt time- end time. Well known is the fact that it saves you the bother of depending on flight and train schedules. You can start the trip from Coimbatore to time your breakfast at Adayar Anandha Bhavan just off Salem and your lunch at home in Bangalore with a tea/smoke break thrown in at Krishnagiri. I am sure you can plan a similar Start-Pit stop-Chequered Flag routine from whichever city you start and propose to end.

Pit Stop at A2B Krishnagiri

Road trips often save you from absurdities too. As someone who often finishes his day in Electronic City, Bangalore and have to go to back to Chennai I find it faster to reach Meenambakkam Airport in Chennai by road than reaching Bangalore International Airport, Devanahalli to catch a flight to Chennai!

Road Trips are cheaper too. For example ticket prices for a family of 4 by 2^nd AC from Coimbatore to Bangalore or by flight are likely to be in the vicinity of Rs.2500.00 to Rs.15000.00 respectively. Add to it the taxi fares for Airport/Station pick-up and drops! The same by car including the toll on the way is likely to cost around Rs.3000.00 in a self driven car. Cheaper if your vehicle is fuelled by CNG or Diesel!

Move over Buddh International and F1!

Here is another. Going to Mysore from Coimbatore? Would you prefer to drive down via Satyamangalam directly to Mysore? Or would you prefer a drive to Coimbatore Airport- Flight to Bangalore-Drive to Mysore? The former would take you about 6 hours and the latter almost the same depending of the flight schedules and at possibly 5 times the cost! Now Tell!!!

Then again you can save money by not checking in to a hotel or check in late depending on when your work is completed. I mean start early from Bangalore, hit to work in Chennai straight, if finished on time, return back the same evening/night. If not check in into a hotel late and save on tariffs. And most importantly save yourselves from being under the mercy of the Chennai Autowallahs! Clincher!

Road trips are supposedly not very women friendly especially with reference to ‘PissStop’ is the oft quoted criticism. My own experience while on road trips with family is quite to the contrary. Most highway hotels and eateries nowadays have toilet facilities. In fact for some of these places the presence of toilets is the primary USP and the food subsequent! On most trips we have never been more than 15-20 minutes away from a convenient place for the womenfolk to relieve themselves. And if the womenfolk reading this are blessed with bladders which cannot hold on for even 15-20 minutes then sorry to say they shouldn’t go on any trip let alone road trips. Except maybe the trip from their drawing room to the washroom!

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PS: While most of what is have written above is universally applicable, the part referring to loo breaks for women is based entirely on our experience during road trips in South India, especially Tamilnadu and Karnataka! "Jahan Soch wahan Shauchalay" is still some distance away in many other states I am told!

Only Soch, Where Shauchalay?

Hope @Suman_Kher likes my rejoinder. Thanks @LifstyleProBlog  @seemagoswami @bkapilan

Dancing Peacocks and Danish Bar!

15.11.2014, 5.30 AM:

Ola Cabs messages saying the cab I booked has arrived before schedule and I can leave early should I wish. They also compliment me with an upgrade to a sedan. Good Morning indeed!

15.11.2014, 6 AM:

A spic and span Coimbatore Junction anbudan welcomes me! Even the tracks are bereft of you know what we find on railway tracks in most Indian station early in the morning! This I am told is not an exception or a photo-op for Swachch Bharat Abhiyan.  Sorry to disappoint you Modiji, this is the hygiene workers earning their honest bread. Bravo Coimbatore!

Swachch Coimbatore Abhiyaan!

15.11.2014, 7 AM:

Unlike the Coimbatore Junction, the Coimbatore-Mayiladhuthurai Jan Shatabdi express presents a poor picture. Run down coaches, wet washrooms and the stink. The coach I travel in doesn’t have a garbage bin to boot, the place allotted instead to stock the stale and tepid breakfast parcels. Note: Please carry breakfast from home or buy a parcel from Annapurna before boarding the train. And skip the watery liquid masquerading as coffee!

15.11.2014, 1 PM:

The train is late. A growling stomach forces you to detrain at Kumbakonam instead. A full fledged saappadu later, SETC ride to Mayiladuthurai is undertaken. A 50 odd KMs ride for just Rs.21.00. Well done! The bus could have however seen a doctor before plying I felt. The other highlight is a single lane state highway. Single lane yes but as with most roads in Tamil Nadu well maintained. A sort of Single lane- toll free- expressway!

Nagore 

(For those who came in late: The entire stretch of coastal Tamilnadu from Chennai through Pondycherry- Cuddalore- Chidambaram- Mayiladuthurai- Kumbakonam- Thanjavur to Trichirapalli is a veritable treasure trove of ancient temples and architectural wonders. A detour from the highway every few kilometers on either side takes you to further more equally ancient and equally wonderful temples. The standing quip is that it takes two lifetimes to visit all the places of religious importance in this region. And while at it how can one be far away from the very Idea of India. Among the various pilgrimage routes is the one from Mayiladuthurai to Thirukadaiyur, a holy town for Hindus, to Nagore, the city of the famous Dargah built over the tomb of the Sufi Saint Hazrath Nagore Shahul Hamid. Also the birthplace of Singer Hanifa who sang Islamic devotional songs in Tamil, and right down to Velankanni, the city of the holy Catholic Church dedicated to Our Lady Of Good Health.  Yes! This is India! Despite the efforts of fundamentalist of various hues, we are like this only!)

Thirukadaiyur

Velankanni

16.11.2014, 9 AM:

One of the most expensive taxi rides takes me to Tranquebar! Not a bar literally but a Danish name for the lyrical Tamil name Tharangampadi! The site of the Danish landing and trading centre in India in early 17th century post an agreement between the Danes and the Maratha King Raghunatha Nayak, of Thanjavur. The highlight of Tranquebar is the majestic Danish Fort built right on the beach adjacent to the Masilamaninathar Temple. A part of the fort is now converted into an Indo-Danish Museum. I will stop the narrative and let the pictures speak instead.  

Danish Fort, Tharagampadi Aka Tranquebar!

16.11.2014, 1 PM:

Among the heart breaking sights is the so called renovation/restoration being done by the Archeological survey of Tamil Nadu and the Archeological Survey of India to the Masilamaninathar shore temple. I don’t know whom to credit this disaster but once again let the picture speak for themselves!

Yeppadi Irundha Naan..............

Ippadi ayittaen!!!!

16.11.2014, 8PM:

Why do all European town be it French, Portugese or Danish exude the same look? This could well be a street in Panjim, Pondicherry or Tranquebar!

Panjim, Pondicherry or..............!

16.11.2014, 10 PM:

Onwards Ho to Coimbatore with Rathi and Meena for company!

Rathi and Meena!

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PS: Mayiladuthurai literally means Land of dancing peacocks! How is that for poetry in a name! Thanks @ndranandraj!

Glossary:

Anbudan: With love
Swachch Bharat Abhiyan : Clean India Campaign
Sappadu: Tamil Nadu Full Meals.
Yeppadi Irundha naan, ippadi ayittaen : How I was and what I have become!